The History of Universal Geneva

L'Histoire d'Universal Genève

Universal Geneva: A History of Innovation and Renaissance The Origins of Universal Geneva

Founded in 1894 by Numa-Émile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret in Le Locle, Switzerland, Universal Genève, originally named "Universal Watch", quickly distinguished itself by producing high-quality pocket and wrist watches. After Descombes' untimely death in 1897, Louis Berthoud joined Perret, and the company was renamed "Perret & Berthoud". In 1919, the company moved to Geneva, reinforcing its prestigious Swiss identity.

Innovations and Iconic Models

Universal Genève has left its mark on watchmaking with innovative creations. In 1944, the brand launched the Tri-Compax, a chronograph with a complete calendar and moon phase, which became a reference for collectors. In 1954, the young designer Gérald Genta designed the Polerouter for the pilots of the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), an anti-magnetic watch with a micro-rotor movement, combining elegance and performance.

Challenges and Decline

Despite its success, Universal Genève was faced with the quartz crisis in the 1970s, which disrupted the Swiss watch industry. The brand struggled to adapt to this new technological competition, which led to a decrease in its presence on the market and a loss of notoriety over the decades.

Renaissance and Future Perspectives

In 2023, Universal Genève is acquired by Breitling, marking the beginning of a new era. Under the leadership of Georges Kern, the brand announces its return with the launch of a new website and social platforms in October 2024, offering a glimpse of its renewed identity. To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS’s first transarctic flight, three special editions of the Polerouter are unveiled, featuring two-part dials designed to resist shock, magnetism and humidity. The first new collections are expected for fall 2026, promising to respect Universal Genève’s heritage while incorporating contemporary innovations.